Persan, a red grape variety once dominant in parts of Savoie, is a true gem in the world of wine. Native to the Maurienne Valley, this iconic grape nearly disappeared before experiencing a recent resurgence, driven by those passionate about its winemaking heritage. In this article, we'll explore the fascinating history of Persan, its unique characteristics, its role in sustainable agricultural development, and its promising future. We'll also offer some recommendations for enjoying Persan in all its glory.
A Brief History Origin and Importance of the Persian in Savoy
The Persian grape, also known by various local names such as "Pressan" or "Princens," was first cultivated in Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne, Savoie. It is a black grape variety with small, ovoid berries, thin skin, and juicy flesh. A true pillar of Savoyard vineyards in the 19th century, it extended from the Arc Valley to parts of the Drôme region.
However, the grape variety has suffered several setbacks over the decades, notably due to the phylloxera crisis at the end of the 19th century and the growing preference for easier-to-grow varieties. Despite these challenges, the Persian has retained a residual place in vineyards thanks to its unique character and quality potential.
In 2007, this grape variety was officially reinstated in the AOC (Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée) grape varieties of the region, marking the beginning of a new era for this wine treasure.
The fall and the rebirth, rediscovery of a forgotten grape variety
The Persian, an ancient grape variety with a noble character , has seen its decline mainly caused by its vulnerability to diseases such as powdery mildew and downy mildew, persistent scourges for winegrowers through the centuries. Added to this is its requirement for a specific terroir: limestone soil and hillsides bathed generously in sunshine, conditions as rare as they are precious. Due to these constraints, coupled with a naturally low yield, the Persian has gradually given way to more robust and prolific grape varieties, better adapted to the imperatives of viticulture oriented towards productivity and growing demand.
Yet this disappearance did not mark the end of its history. The rediscovery of Persan is a testament to the vision and tenacity of a few passionate winegrowers, true guardians of our winemaking heritage. Driven by the desire to preserve this unique legacy, they have ensured the grape variety's preservation in conservation nurseries, ensuring its survival despite challenges. Their dedication has led to a gradual revival of its cultivation, although still limited to carefully selected plots. Today, Persan is resurfacing, cultivated on carefully selected land in Savoie, where it benefits from ideal conditions to unfold its full singularity. This little-known grape variety, once relegated to the shadows, now brings a new richness to the winemaking landscape, captivating amateurs and experts alike in search of authentic flavors. With its deep and complex aromas and its ability to produce elegant and finely structured wines, Persan seduces with its timeless and distinctive character.
This renaissance is not simply the return of a grape variety, but a shining example of passion and perseverance. It embodies the ability of the art of winemaking to resurrect forgotten treasures, reminding us that, beyond challenges, a commitment to excellence and history can revive gems of the past, enriching our heritage and the pleasures of the table for future generations.
"L'Arbyola" from Domaine Berthollier, our interpretation of Persian
Persan Arbyolâ is a biodynamic red wine from Savoie that celebrates the revival of the nearly forgotten Persian grape variety. This wine dazzles with its unique blend of vibrant red fruit flavors, such as gooseberry and blackcurrant, and a bracing, refreshing acidity. It can be enjoyed young or after years of aging, thanks to its complex structure, making it a wine suitable for aging for 5 to 10 years. Paired with tapas, charcuterie, or even a chocolate tart, Arbyolâ promises a memorable tasting. Made from certified biodynamic grapes grown on clay-limestone hillsides, every element of its production is treated with care. The grapes are hand-harvested, carefully sorted, and fermented using indigenous yeasts. The wine undergoes a sulfur-free maceration process, with minimal sulfur added during bottling, allowing the pure, natural flavors to shine through. Aged for 12 months in a mixture of vats and amphorae, this wine truly reflects the craftsmanship and passion of its makers.
The unique characteristics of the Persian
Aromatic profile
This Persian wine is distinguished by its deep, almost velvety red color, which immediately captures the eye. On the nose, it reveals captivating aromas of red fruits such as raspberry and blackberry, delicately blended with floral notes of violet and more complex touches of leather and spices. On the palate, it combines a marked tannic structure, offering beautiful power, with a subtle elegance that refines and improves with age. These characteristics make it a wine of great richness, ideal for accompanying flavorful and complex dishes such as meats in sauce, stews, or even mature cheeses. A wine that promises a memorable taste experience, especially after a few years of aging.
Aging potential
Unlike many wines from the region, Persan is renowned for its exceptional aging potential. This rare grape variety, native to the Alpine region, develops remarkable depth and complexity over time. It reaches its peak after 12 to 15 years, during which time its tannins soften and its aromas evolve to reveal more complex notes, ranging from candied black fruits to subtle spices and earthy nuances. Its texture then becomes silky, offering a unique and memorable tasting experience for lovers of wines with ageing potential.
Food and wine pairings
Persian is a wine that offers a beautiful structure and complex aromas, lending itself to numerous gastronomic pairings. It pairs wonderfully with:
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Red meats and game : Its structure balances the rich flavors of meats like beef tenderloin, venison, or wild boar stew. Ideal for enhancing a gourmet dinner.
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Mature Savoyard cheeses : Cheeses such as Beaufort, Tomme and Abondance reveal all their richness in the company of this wine, thanks to its expressive and slightly spicy character.
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Local and traditional dishes : Savoyard specialties such as snails from Maison Blanche de Maurienne, diots in red wine or Savoyard stuffed dishes harmonize perfectly with the fruity and spicy notes of Persan, bringing an authentic touch to your meals.
This wine is a true invitation to discover the richness of the region's flavors, ideal for accompanying convivial moments or festive meals.
Service
To enjoy it at its best, serve the Persian slightly chilled (16-18°C) in a large glass which will allow its aromas to fully express themselves.
Persian and sustainable agriculture: a winning duo
Growing Persian grapes fits perfectly with a sustainable agricultural approach. Because it thrives in well-drained limestone soils, the grape variety requires less intensive treatment compared to other varieties. Furthermore, being associated with traditional viticultural practices, it contributes to the preservation of ancestral winegrowing landscapes.
This resurgence, accompanied by values of respect for the land and biodiversity, positions the Persian as a shining example of sustainability in an industry often criticized for its ecological impact.
The Promising Future of the Persian
Today, the area planted with Persan remains limited, but demand continues to grow, both among informed enthusiasts and wine professionals. This ancient grape variety, native to the Rhône-Alpes region, seduces with its unique character and its ability to produce elegant, structured, and complex wines. Many sommeliers and wine lovers consider it a true gem, still unknown, but with immense and untapped potential. Some producers, passionate about this grape variety, are now exploring new approaches, such as innovative winemaking or blends with other local grape varieties. These experiments aim not only to diversify the available wine profiles, but also to highlight the versatility and adaptability of Persan in different terroirs.
That said, several challenges remain to ensure a stable and promising future for the Persian grape. It is crucial to raise awareness among the public and professionals of its unique value, highlighting its organoleptic qualities and rich history. Furthermore, supporting winemakers who are committed to this work of preserving and reviving the Persian grape is essential. This could involve grant programs, collective initiatives, or promotional events dedicated to this rare and precious grape variety.
With such potential and growing commitment from passionate producers, the future of the Persian looks very promising, both locally and internationally.
Let's preserve France's wine heritage
Persan is much more than just a grape variety: it's a vibrant and precious part of French winemaking history. Native to the Maurienne Valley, this ancient grape variety almost disappeared over the centuries, a victim of fashion and economic ups and downs. Fortunately, it's now being brought back into the spotlight by passionate winemakers who are striving to preserve this rich heritage.
As wine lovers, supporting ancient grape varieties like Persan is essential to maintaining the diversity and sustainability of the wine world. Its revival not only helps enrich our palates but also preserves local expertise and unique winemaking traditions.
So, the next time you're looking for a unique wine to add to your cellar or as a gift, consider Persan. With its complex aromas and beautiful structure, it's sure to surprise you and delight your guests. You won't be disappointed, and by making this choice, you'll also be contributing to the preservation of a rich, authentic, and sustainable wine heritage. Discover it and let yourself be seduced by this forgotten treasure.